Home > April in Paris > Archives > 2008 > December > 05
Friday, December 5, 2008
On Rue Tatin with Chef Susan Herrmann Loomis
Having taken a course with Susan Loomis in Patricia Well’s left bank cooking studio in Paris, it was decided that I would work with Susan and assist her with other classes in Paris and Normandy during the month of November. I would like to share with you some of my experiences with her in her lovely home and cooking school in Louviers, France.
Upon arriving in Louviers, Susan showed me to my room upstairs, and I got settled in. My room was cozy and I couldn’t help but notice the gothic cathedral that stood at the center of the city, outside my bedroom window. I changed into my work clothes, and hurried downstairs to the beautiful French kitchen, I couldn’t wait to start working!
That evening Susan explained the process of setting up for the school and my mind raced with excitement. Every piece of copper gleemed and every utensil, cup and saucer was shined and returned to its coveted place on the beautiful shelves. Susan manicured the terrace and garden and I started on a punch list in the kitchen. We stopped for a delicious dinner of braised endive and a fresh green salad with a dressing made of nut oil. Our dinner was absolutely delightful next to the wood-burning fire in her kitchen.
Saturday morning Susan had already displayed the pristine French pottery teapots and serving dishes on the high shelves over-looking the French-tiled kitchen. We decided to meet early, so that we could beat the crowd at the market. Susan poured me a hot cup of tea, we talked about the adventures for the day and set off to the beautiful outdoor market with our over-sized straw baskets to purchase the fresh ingredients for the upcoming cooking classes.
At the market the air was mixed with the smell of fresh chickens on the rotisserie and the crisp cool air of winter ladened with a tinge of smoke coming from the fireplaces of the ancient story-book like homes that filled the city.
Huge crusty loaves of artisan bread were being sliced with a ragged bread knife and fresh picked apples were being stacked in their wooden crates as Susan told me the story of the proud ‘apple man’ who consistently and passionately shares his delight of being able to offer such great apples to his customers this season. I pictured the apple man as an old man graying and jolly, my vision was quickly interrupted as I zeroed in on the real apple man—a young man in his twenties with a chocolate brown turtle neck and big, smiling eyes. My thoughts of a farmer, will never be the same.
We then made a turn to the left down into the bustling produce area where Susan introduced me to Baptiste, the vegetable farmer who quickly exchanged the xxx—the quick friendly kisses on each cheek the French give upon greeting and departure. I had orders to purchase potatoes, so I quickly returned to business, purchased the pommes de terre and bid my new friend, Baptiste, “Auvoir!”
When Susan approached the cheese display, where everyone knows her well, she requested her selection of cheese and the experts asked when it would be eaten, then several of them hovered into a group as they discussed the best piece for ripeness. I just love France.
I watched as Susan so fluidly asked each artisan for her choice of poultry and meat. Then after she purchased fresh whole rabbit, guinea fowl, pork cheeks and numerous other fresh market finds, we ventured back to Susan’s beautiful home. For some reason, even though all of our bags were overflowing…the bags just seem lighter in France. The rest of the day we prepped for the course that would begin on Sunday.
That evening I took a break and found a place amongst the hundreds of people gathered in the cathedral for a special Christmas program. The church is being totally restored, a young new priest had recently taken the post at the church and according to some of the townspeople, the church had made a real comeback with record numbers of people attending every week. Seeing this special holiday program was a very special memory of this lovely French town.
Back at On Rue Tatin, Susan and I had dinner and then went over more preparations for the class. We decide to meet back in the kitchen the following morning to set up the mise en place, French for ‘everything in its place’ for the cooking class.
Running up the stairs to my room, I was anxious to get to sleep so that I could wake up to the new day. I changed into my pajamas, turned down my bed and turned off the light. As I slid into my bed, I noticed a beautiful warm glow that covered me and poured onto the opposite wall. I turned around in my bed and looked through the wooden elf-like windows towards the mysterious light. I gasped as I saw the clock tower and the towering cathedral shining like a Lambeth method encrusted wedding cake in the night. Tears welled up in my eyes, what a beautiful place. I turned back around and pulled the covers up around my face to warm up. No need to sleep tonight…I felt as if I was already dreaming!
—Aprilxxx
